The cultural differences issue is an often-discussed topic
in the fashion industry. Many luxury brands have been criticized either by
“understanding other cultures in a shallow way” or by “cultural
appropriation”. In 2015 Isabel Marant
faced backlash for of plagiarising the traditional costume of a Mexican
community, a year later Gucci was criticized for presenting white models in
Sikh-style turbans, and in 2018, D&G had to cancel its big show in Shanghai
because of “being racist to Chinese” in its advertisement. More interesting,
the limited editions launched by western luxury brands for each Chinese New
Year, have received many Chinese’s complains about how limited knowledge these
brands have about celebration’s symbols and traditions.
Gigi Hadid in dreads for Marc Jacobs, Gucci models in Sikh-style turbans, Victoria's Secret angels in Native American headdresses.
Burberry removed its campaign from social media following negative feedback.
Does it mean fashion industry is facing cultural differences
related difficulties?
Light Stone Jewellery, a Shanghai-based jewellery website
focusing on Chinese cultural jewelry, has its own understanding of this topic,
and believes what they provide will go beyond such cultural differences. The
interview with Light Stone is recorded as below.
Q: You claimed that the jewelry you selected can go beyond
the culture differences. Does that mean you think “culture differences” is a
non-issue in fashion industry?
A: Culture differences do exist, but it is not an issue.
Light Stone is trying to introduce more different aspects of Chinese culture to
people, and also showing the common understanding of beauty in different
cultures. It is essential to find a balance between them. What we believe is
that peoples’ perspective of beauty is very close even with varying backgrounds
of culture. When you look at the jewelry design history world widely, many
elements were favored by different cultures. Naturalism is one of them.
Flowers, birds, trees, animals are commonly used almost everywhere in jewelry.
Why? Because we are all born on this planet and are all in love with our mother
nature. There is no need to guess whether a European will agree on the
prettiness of flowers as we Chinese will do.
However, for the same flower, the cultural meanings in
different countries might be different. For example, plum blossom is a commonly
used image in Chinese art. The flower is
one of the “Four Gentlemen” (plum blossom, orchid, bamboo, chrysanthemum), and
symbolizes perseverance, braveness, nobility, purity in Chinese tradition. Such
culture specialty is something we also want to share with people. This is why
we put “Culture Tips” in the introduction of our jewelry.
Our standards on selecting what can be listed on our website
are: a. It is true beauty that could be commonly understood by most people; b.
There are unique Chinese culture features behind them.
It is rational to see that we are different, but also
important to understand we are not that different.
Q: What is it that gives you the confidence of achieving
such balance?
A: We are not so arrogant to say that we have already found
the balance point. It is maybe a lifetime target for us to achieve. However,
with the team’s international background and the local touch, we should be able
to get closer. We have GIA, FGA members, while we are also working closely with
crafters who live in the faraway mountains of southwest China. We are learning
from our customers in France, Spain, Portugal, United Kingdom, Romania, etc.,
but also enrich ourselves with Chinese traditional cultural knowledge.
But again, and honestly, it is not us, who will find the
balance point. The point is there already. The real beauty itself is the best
balance point, and people’s love for it is a universal value.
Q: How do you see the impacts of international trend of
oversea e-commerce business opportunities on culture related business like
yours?
A: It is for sure a never seen historical moment in human
history, not only good for business but also cultural exchange.
It is not only today we have “international”. Human history
is full of exchange and communication, though transportation and technology
obstacles limited the size international in ancient times.
Light Stone has many enameling jewelry collections on our
website. Many of them are made by the most widely known Chinese enameling skill
Cloisonné or Jintai Blue, which is commonly believed originally from Arabic
countries or West Asia, and arrived in China around 1000 years ago. Lived in
China, the colors, patterns, manufacturing skills of such enameling skill were
developed into “Chinese style”, and thus born the Cloisonné. When we look at
closer history, the painted enamel which was popular for the royal family in
the Qing Dynasty (1636—1912) of China, was being introduced by missionaries in
16ths from France.
No matter where these techniques were originally from, they
were now used in Chinese jewelry in Chinese style and appreciated by people
from all over the world.
Light Stone Enameling Necklace
The luck we have today is that the fast development of
international trade and internet have allowed everyone to have a closer look
and better understandings on diversified beautiful arts, no matter they were
rooted from same places or not. People
have more windows to see different “flowers” in other parts of the planet. We
Light Stone would like to be one of such windows.
Light Stone ended the interview by saying:
“Maybe
one day, culture differences will disappear thanks to this international trend.
It will be when we truly understand each other.”